Living on a Narrowboat
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The one thing I get asked the most is, "What's it really like living all year round on a narrowboat".
The following is my advice and thoughts on the subject:
The following is my advice and thoughts on the subject:
What paperwork do you need!
you will need a constant cruiser licence for living aboard, unless you happen to have a home marina.
Once you have got your licence, you can get away with a fair bit, if your late renewing they are fairly forgiving, they will let you alone if you keep in contact, and pay what you can.
For current licence fees go to............
Insurance unfortunately a legal necececity. The cheapest is the basic boat insurance at around£100.00 to £120.00 a year, dependent on your boat age and size. As a live aboard you only need the minimum.
Boat safety certificate - like an MOT and valid for four years and costs around £150
For current testing fees go to......…
What I call under the radar costs do occur, so put a bit aside each year for the unforeseen costs and don't spend it save it up.
There will be the time a battery needs replacing or heaven forbid the engine needs a rebuild, so put aside a slush fund to cover these eventualities. At the current time I put aside a slush fund of £300.00 a year just in case.
Once you have got your licence, you can get away with a fair bit, if your late renewing they are fairly forgiving, they will let you alone if you keep in contact, and pay what you can.
For current licence fees go to............
Insurance unfortunately a legal necececity. The cheapest is the basic boat insurance at around£100.00 to £120.00 a year, dependent on your boat age and size. As a live aboard you only need the minimum.
Boat safety certificate - like an MOT and valid for four years and costs around £150
For current testing fees go to......…
What I call under the radar costs do occur, so put a bit aside each year for the unforeseen costs and don't spend it save it up.
There will be the time a battery needs replacing or heaven forbid the engine needs a rebuild, so put aside a slush fund to cover these eventualities. At the current time I put aside a slush fund of £300.00 a year just in case.
There is a fantastic spread sheet that is constantly being updated, that compares all the prices for Gas, fuel, pump outs etc, its well worth checking out click on the link below.
Link. Inland Waterways Diesel & Pumpout Price Survey
Link. Inland Waterways Diesel & Pumpout Price Survey
To give you an idea of my annual running costs I have appended the budget for my boat for 2020.
This budget is the bare minimum I need to live.
The boat is paid for so I have no loan to pay back, and I am a marine engineer so my maintenance cost do not include labour.
Saying that there's no reason why you cannot take on board most of your own maintenance work yourself.
Living afloat 365 days a year is great, but being on the move can limit how you make money. For me for eight months of the year its OK but comer the winter months there's not much work about. and that's why I put aside the emergency Supplies fund.
I started this a few years ago when money was tight and there was not much work around, so I brought in a load of food with a long shelf life so I never ran out of essentials when the going got tough.
And for the first time in years it paid off, with Covid 19, finding supplies was hard but I didn't have to worry I had my essential supplies including toilet rolls so there was no panic buying at overinflated prices.
There are so many variables on producing a meaningful budget
Budget!
Constant cruiser licence £1020.40 (Annual Fee with promt payment
Boat Safety Certificate £ 40.00 (Percentage of fee over four years)
Day to Day Maintenance £ 200.00
Slush Fund £ 300.00 ( This pays for the luxuries and my whimsical buys I never planned for)
Fuel Diesel £ 350.00
Propane Gas £420.00
Misc mooring fees £250.00 ( Based on last year when I chose to stay longer at specific locations.
Total £2580.40
This is the absolute minimum, there's the internet of course and you may have breakdown cover these extras al ass up.
Boat Safety Certificate £ 40.00 (Percentage of fee over four years)
Day to Day Maintenance £ 200.00
Slush Fund £ 300.00 ( This pays for the luxuries and my whimsical buys I never planned for)
Fuel Diesel £ 350.00
Propane Gas £420.00
Misc mooring fees £250.00 ( Based on last year when I chose to stay longer at specific locations.
Total £2580.40
This is the absolute minimum, there's the internet of course and you may have breakdown cover these extras al ass up.
Running Costs!
Water
You will have your own tank built in, and you licence lets you use canal side water points, so that's included in your licence.
Its worth thinking about installing a water filter, it well worth it. Check out the Hands On DIY page for advice.
Diesel
How much you use depends on whether you have solar panels and a multifuel stove.
For many boats heating / cooking / hot water / battery charging is all diesel, so the diesel usage can be high.
The advanteges are you don't have to drag gas bottles to the boat or clean up ash from a coal fire. this system uses about £30 a week in the winter, whereas most people will use more like £5-10 a week. Many people use a wet central heating system and a webasto diesel heater bit like a like a handbag sized boiler, these are great but need a fair bit of maintenance.
When it comes to buying Diesel you will have to pay full tax for propulsion and reduced tax for domestic use.
You can declare your own percentage split but you may have to justify it, but 60% full tax and 40% reduced is what the HMRC has said will be considered reasonable for most boats.
Although those who live on their boats without mains electricity could easily justify more reduced tax than that. Many boatyards only do 60/40 because it saves them having to charge different prices for different splits.
The other thing to remember is if you don't use diesel for domestic use, you should pay the full amount not a % split.
Multifuel stoves
These are surprisingly costly to run, as logs can be expensive, as is coal. These are only cheap if your close to a source of wood. Expect to be paying £20 a week in the winter. I like solid fuel as a concept, I dislike the reality, In my experience controlling the heat is difficult, fuel storage is messy, and logs left on the roof get wet, won't burn, stain your paint, clog up your chimney with tar and cover your solar panels with soot.
Saying that a solid fuel stove is extremely cheap to install however. Stove + bit of flue Pipe + hole in roof + vent in door = job done.........
If I was rebuilding my boat from scratch, i would have a multifuel stove installed as a primary source of heat / cooking etc and i would also i brought a good one so it is controllable!
Gas
Costs depends on your usage heating, cooking etc, but can be the cheapest way to heat your boat, the standard 13kg propane cylinders cost around £30.00 TO £35.00 on average for a refill.
Generally one cylinder should upto three months if you are only cooking on it, But if you have gas central heating last just a week, and in mid winter it can easily be nearer two cylinders.
Sewage -
Your going to have one of three options:
A cassette toilet, that can be emptied for free at any elsan point.
A storage tank, which will need emptying out at a cost of around £20 to £25.00.00 every time.
Or composting, where you separate the liquid from the solids, can be emptied for free at any elsan point.
Personally i have used my initiative, and have installed a normal house toilet, a saniflo and three 20 litre containers in a bunded locker. This means my toilet actually flushes, doesn't smell, and the tanks can be carried to the elsan point for free disposal. Still a smelly job though.
Winter Moorings.
You can purchase a winter mooring - right to stay in one place for the winter - price varies but £800 is about the mark.
If the weather is bad enough to make you need to stay put, BW wont make you move anyway.
Council tax.
Well there's none of that. But you have to consider the deeper implications, no house, not on the electoral role so no vote.
Day to Day Maintenance.
Go to the Hands on DIY page.
But in short, expect to go through10 litres of anti-slip and hull paint annually, just remember to keep on top of rust.
I recommend using two sets of fuel and oil filters as year, as well as oil for engine and gearbox and don't forget the drive belts and change the Jabsco impeller.
so your probably going to be spending £250 across the year.
You will have your own tank built in, and you licence lets you use canal side water points, so that's included in your licence.
Its worth thinking about installing a water filter, it well worth it. Check out the Hands On DIY page for advice.
Diesel
How much you use depends on whether you have solar panels and a multifuel stove.
For many boats heating / cooking / hot water / battery charging is all diesel, so the diesel usage can be high.
The advanteges are you don't have to drag gas bottles to the boat or clean up ash from a coal fire. this system uses about £30 a week in the winter, whereas most people will use more like £5-10 a week. Many people use a wet central heating system and a webasto diesel heater bit like a like a handbag sized boiler, these are great but need a fair bit of maintenance.
When it comes to buying Diesel you will have to pay full tax for propulsion and reduced tax for domestic use.
You can declare your own percentage split but you may have to justify it, but 60% full tax and 40% reduced is what the HMRC has said will be considered reasonable for most boats.
Although those who live on their boats without mains electricity could easily justify more reduced tax than that. Many boatyards only do 60/40 because it saves them having to charge different prices for different splits.
The other thing to remember is if you don't use diesel for domestic use, you should pay the full amount not a % split.
Multifuel stoves
These are surprisingly costly to run, as logs can be expensive, as is coal. These are only cheap if your close to a source of wood. Expect to be paying £20 a week in the winter. I like solid fuel as a concept, I dislike the reality, In my experience controlling the heat is difficult, fuel storage is messy, and logs left on the roof get wet, won't burn, stain your paint, clog up your chimney with tar and cover your solar panels with soot.
Saying that a solid fuel stove is extremely cheap to install however. Stove + bit of flue Pipe + hole in roof + vent in door = job done.........
If I was rebuilding my boat from scratch, i would have a multifuel stove installed as a primary source of heat / cooking etc and i would also i brought a good one so it is controllable!
Gas
Costs depends on your usage heating, cooking etc, but can be the cheapest way to heat your boat, the standard 13kg propane cylinders cost around £30.00 TO £35.00 on average for a refill.
Generally one cylinder should upto three months if you are only cooking on it, But if you have gas central heating last just a week, and in mid winter it can easily be nearer two cylinders.
Sewage -
Your going to have one of three options:
A cassette toilet, that can be emptied for free at any elsan point.
A storage tank, which will need emptying out at a cost of around £20 to £25.00.00 every time.
Or composting, where you separate the liquid from the solids, can be emptied for free at any elsan point.
Personally i have used my initiative, and have installed a normal house toilet, a saniflo and three 20 litre containers in a bunded locker. This means my toilet actually flushes, doesn't smell, and the tanks can be carried to the elsan point for free disposal. Still a smelly job though.
Winter Moorings.
You can purchase a winter mooring - right to stay in one place for the winter - price varies but £800 is about the mark.
If the weather is bad enough to make you need to stay put, BW wont make you move anyway.
Council tax.
Well there's none of that. But you have to consider the deeper implications, no house, not on the electoral role so no vote.
Day to Day Maintenance.
Go to the Hands on DIY page.
But in short, expect to go through10 litres of anti-slip and hull paint annually, just remember to keep on top of rust.
I recommend using two sets of fuel and oil filters as year, as well as oil for engine and gearbox and don't forget the drive belts and change the Jabsco impeller.
so your probably going to be spending £250 across the year.
Mooring.
There are two reasons for stopping in an unofficial mooring spot.
1) The spot looks nice!
So long as you aren't actually stopped in some ones mooring place, and you move on if asked, no one really minds.
2) Safety.
If you can't moor up with other boats and you don't like the look of the area, consider mooring on the 'off side' (not on towpath side) my favourite is to tie up in a hawthorn bush, If someone wants to get at you they will need to either swim or cut a tree down.
1) The spot looks nice!
So long as you aren't actually stopped in some ones mooring place, and you move on if asked, no one really minds.
2) Safety.
If you can't moor up with other boats and you don't like the look of the area, consider mooring on the 'off side' (not on towpath side) my favourite is to tie up in a hawthorn bush, If someone wants to get at you they will need to either swim or cut a tree down.
Where Not to moor.
1) In any official mooring with no one in it, in a busy area - Like Alperton in NW London, its empty for a reason, The kids are a nightmare.
2) Anywhere near a travellers site, nothing against travellers, but the kids can be difficult. They are usually just interested in what your doing, but one wrong move by you and you have an 8 year old who can fight, backed by dozens of family members and your stuck in a twenty ton boat that doesn't do much over walking speed.
3) Near any pub that doesn't serve food, if it doesn't serve food its not a nice little canal pub, its the type drunk builders stagger out of at midnight, urinate on your front deck, and want to fight you. I refer you back to the twenty ton boat that doesn't do much over walking speed, and point out it will also be dark.
4) Tow path benches. Try to avoid being the only boat near a tow path bench. You will either get bored old men wondering over constantly, or, more common now, Eastern European labourers with nowhere else to go getting drunk and rowdy.
At worst, move so your not directly in front of the bench.
5) Next to 'that guy, you can easily spot them, untidy, poorly maintained boats, free roaming dogs, beer cans, pirate flag, etc.
1) In any official mooring with no one in it, in a busy area - Like Alperton in NW London, its empty for a reason, The kids are a nightmare.
2) Anywhere near a travellers site, nothing against travellers, but the kids can be difficult. They are usually just interested in what your doing, but one wrong move by you and you have an 8 year old who can fight, backed by dozens of family members and your stuck in a twenty ton boat that doesn't do much over walking speed.
3) Near any pub that doesn't serve food, if it doesn't serve food its not a nice little canal pub, its the type drunk builders stagger out of at midnight, urinate on your front deck, and want to fight you. I refer you back to the twenty ton boat that doesn't do much over walking speed, and point out it will also be dark.
4) Tow path benches. Try to avoid being the only boat near a tow path bench. You will either get bored old men wondering over constantly, or, more common now, Eastern European labourers with nowhere else to go getting drunk and rowdy.
At worst, move so your not directly in front of the bench.
5) Next to 'that guy, you can easily spot them, untidy, poorly maintained boats, free roaming dogs, beer cans, pirate flag, etc.
Don't get thrown off the Canals!
Take care who you make friends with on the canal, there are loads of lovely people, but there are also loads of "the type of people" you don't want to end up stuck with, like a guy that has loud parties all night and makes a mess.
Use common sense, be civil. Move on if you have to.
Funnily enough (can't think why) single lady boaters are treated with surprising respect and usually find life quite pleasant.
Use common sense, be civil. Move on if you have to.
Funnily enough (can't think why) single lady boaters are treated with surprising respect and usually find life quite pleasant.
The following will get you thrown off the canal
1) Rubbish and fly tipping
2) Promising to pay your licence but not actually doing it
3) Parties till 3am in a residential area
4) Consistently overstaying at a moorings
5) Returning to said mooring too soon
6) Leaking oil or diesel
7) Loose roaming chickens.
8) Planting stuff on the towpath
9) Irritating the local residents in any way
10) Arguing with the BW inspector
Number 10 is great, I know of a boater tell the Canal & River Trust ranger he must be blind as he wasn't in this spot the previous week , and when the ranger didn't accept it the boater physically threw the ranger in the canal.
Being serious for a moment however, we need to give Canal & River Trust rangers a bit of a break, they bend the rules for liveaboards all the time, and if you break down they will let you stay as long as you need to repair, as long as you tell them, so go easy on them.
Even when the ranger is rude to you, remember he has been sworn at by boaters all day.
1) Rubbish and fly tipping
2) Promising to pay your licence but not actually doing it
3) Parties till 3am in a residential area
4) Consistently overstaying at a moorings
5) Returning to said mooring too soon
6) Leaking oil or diesel
7) Loose roaming chickens.
8) Planting stuff on the towpath
9) Irritating the local residents in any way
10) Arguing with the BW inspector
Number 10 is great, I know of a boater tell the Canal & River Trust ranger he must be blind as he wasn't in this spot the previous week , and when the ranger didn't accept it the boater physically threw the ranger in the canal.
Being serious for a moment however, we need to give Canal & River Trust rangers a bit of a break, they bend the rules for liveaboards all the time, and if you break down they will let you stay as long as you need to repair, as long as you tell them, so go easy on them.
Even when the ranger is rude to you, remember he has been sworn at by boaters all day.
Day to Day life.
There is no way to be completely protected from burglars on the canal, but keeping close to other boats, keeping valuables out of sight, and trying not to show off things that would be attractive to thieves helps.
Remember the best security is, no one knowing what you have on your boat so don't show off your valuables.
Kids with stones or an air rifle can be a problem. Get yourself a camera, it doesn't need to work and pretend to take pictures of them when they are troublesome. Whatever you do, don't shout and get into an argument they love that and will just cause more agro.
Having your boat stolen is uncommon, mainly because escape is so slow, your primary security risk comes from other boaters as they will actually know when you are off the boat as they will see your patterns.
Usually they are not after valuables, Solar panels, diesel, gas and coal are the usual pick of the rogue boater. Keep filler caps locked, coal indoors or in lockers, and gas lockers closed and locked.
Consider keeping a section of plywood behind your sofa, the perfect size to cover a broken window. The moment one window breaks, the kids will assume its fair game to go for the others.
Graffiti - at some point you will get tagged. accept it, paint over it, (unless its a Banksy) and forget about it.
Remember the best security is, no one knowing what you have on your boat so don't show off your valuables.
Kids with stones or an air rifle can be a problem. Get yourself a camera, it doesn't need to work and pretend to take pictures of them when they are troublesome. Whatever you do, don't shout and get into an argument they love that and will just cause more agro.
Having your boat stolen is uncommon, mainly because escape is so slow, your primary security risk comes from other boaters as they will actually know when you are off the boat as they will see your patterns.
Usually they are not after valuables, Solar panels, diesel, gas and coal are the usual pick of the rogue boater. Keep filler caps locked, coal indoors or in lockers, and gas lockers closed and locked.
Consider keeping a section of plywood behind your sofa, the perfect size to cover a broken window. The moment one window breaks, the kids will assume its fair game to go for the others.
Graffiti - at some point you will get tagged. accept it, paint over it, (unless its a Banksy) and forget about it.
If you were thinking kids are the problem, you forgot cyclists. The problem here is that cyclists treat pedestrians on a towpath like cars treat cyclists on the road. Be careful. Cyclists will run you over, crash into your mooring pins and try to sue you, and generally make your life miserable. My only tips are put Hi-Viz safety covers on your mooring spikes, its a good idea, and most cyclists are on there own, so if you feel feisty, yell at him, its unlikely he has three dozen family members within shouting range.
One thing you should avoid doing is to shout at cyclists once they have passed you. The towpath can be quite bumpy, narrow, close to water, and they have top look over their shoulder to hear you. if you shout at them its 50/50 whether they fall off, and I have personally witnessed an annoyed cyclist look back at a dog he nearly hit and cycle into the canal, still pedalling.
One thing you should avoid doing is to shout at cyclists once they have passed you. The towpath can be quite bumpy, narrow, close to water, and they have top look over their shoulder to hear you. if you shout at them its 50/50 whether they fall off, and I have personally witnessed an annoyed cyclist look back at a dog he nearly hit and cycle into the canal, still pedalling.
Any self respecting live aboard will have painted his craft one colour, all over, this is common there's more to life than stripes and flowers when depending on a 1960's engine to heat your water.
Anyway, Wood, coal, generators, 'stuff' on the roof, all good signs, No name on boat just the BW number is also common, after all a pissed off resident can remember "Gipsy Rose" when calling the Canal and River Trust to complain, Craft 65409 is not so easy!.
Anyway, Wood, coal, generators, 'stuff' on the roof, all good signs, No name on boat just the BW number is also common, after all a pissed off resident can remember "Gipsy Rose" when calling the Canal and River Trust to complain, Craft 65409 is not so easy!.
when it comes to rubbish this is a problem, expect to produce a bin bag full every three days. You need to buy the best quality rubbish bags you can as birds are a proper pain, and will empty your rubbish all over the canal before you get up.
Foxes too are an issue, in a city they have no problem hopping on deck and carrying off your rubbish, usually to the towpath by the next boat, and then scattering it all over the place. You need to make a decision early on, get rid of rubbish little and often, and in small quantities.
Local council bins can be utilised or towpath bins, but will normally be rammed full in popular areas, this is fine so long as it is just small amounts you are getting rid of.
Black sack disposal is easier at the official places, they will be clearly marked. Your only problem with this is storing the rubbish for a period of time, but that's why you bought good quality rubbish sacks!
I must admit, I did start recycling' where I separated my recycling, trouble is I haven't found recycling bins on the canal so I would drop it into household recycling containers in domestic areas on 'recycling day'.
I figured this was 'doing the right thing'. If you get caught, don't expect the householder to agree!
Foxes too are an issue, in a city they have no problem hopping on deck and carrying off your rubbish, usually to the towpath by the next boat, and then scattering it all over the place. You need to make a decision early on, get rid of rubbish little and often, and in small quantities.
Local council bins can be utilised or towpath bins, but will normally be rammed full in popular areas, this is fine so long as it is just small amounts you are getting rid of.
Black sack disposal is easier at the official places, they will be clearly marked. Your only problem with this is storing the rubbish for a period of time, but that's why you bought good quality rubbish sacks!
I must admit, I did start recycling' where I separated my recycling, trouble is I haven't found recycling bins on the canal so I would drop it into household recycling containers in domestic areas on 'recycling day'.
I figured this was 'doing the right thing'. If you get caught, don't expect the householder to agree!
Winter Afloat.
To survive the winter you will need to plan ahead, you can't carry enough fuel to see you through the winter, you can't guarantee that the canal will be navigable due to stoppages, allowing you to go and get fuel.
You need to Stay close to a fuel source, be it woods for firewood or a petrol station for diesel.
Winter is a beautiful time on the cut, but if you don't prepare you wont enjoy it. Going to bed in the evening is fine, when the boat is warm and cosy. However, by morning, the twenty tons of poorly insulated steel in contact with 2 degree water will be very cold.
You need to have a method of quickly heating the boat in the morning, ideally one that can be switched on from in bed!.
In all seriousness though, for you wood burners including me, you need some good hardwood logs to keep the fire smouldering overnight so you can quickly open it up again, and the same for Coal. If you have diesel heaters, consider having a switch in the bedroom.
Engines dislike the cold, so before moving off consider letting the winter sun warm the boat a bit, possibly running your heating too, just to get some heat into the engine block before hitting the throttle.
Diesel comes in two grades, summer and winter, make sure you use all your 'summer' diesel, and refill on 'winter' or that will freeze too. If you do wind up with diesel that waxes up, a gallon of heating oil "28 second oil" or C2 kerosene, as a last resort a gallon of paraffin in the diesel tank will help the waxing.
Try not to add it to an empty tank, ideally you want a maximum mix of 50-1 really mix as, even though your engine will run on pure heating oil, it doesn't lubricate the injector pump properly.
Discharged batteries will freeze up and crack in the cold, and will take far longer to charge. There isn't much you can do really, you can't insulate a battery as it doesn't want to get too hot either!, but a sheet of thin dense foam between the base of the battery and the battery box helps a lot.
The winter is where solar panels become highly valuable, as cold solar panels work at a slightly higher efficiency, the batteries will be refusing to charge quickly as its cold, so a trickle charge for 8 hours a day is brilliant news. Solar panels these days are excellent, mine charge in moonlight too!
You need to Stay close to a fuel source, be it woods for firewood or a petrol station for diesel.
Winter is a beautiful time on the cut, but if you don't prepare you wont enjoy it. Going to bed in the evening is fine, when the boat is warm and cosy. However, by morning, the twenty tons of poorly insulated steel in contact with 2 degree water will be very cold.
You need to have a method of quickly heating the boat in the morning, ideally one that can be switched on from in bed!.
In all seriousness though, for you wood burners including me, you need some good hardwood logs to keep the fire smouldering overnight so you can quickly open it up again, and the same for Coal. If you have diesel heaters, consider having a switch in the bedroom.
Engines dislike the cold, so before moving off consider letting the winter sun warm the boat a bit, possibly running your heating too, just to get some heat into the engine block before hitting the throttle.
Diesel comes in two grades, summer and winter, make sure you use all your 'summer' diesel, and refill on 'winter' or that will freeze too. If you do wind up with diesel that waxes up, a gallon of heating oil "28 second oil" or C2 kerosene, as a last resort a gallon of paraffin in the diesel tank will help the waxing.
Try not to add it to an empty tank, ideally you want a maximum mix of 50-1 really mix as, even though your engine will run on pure heating oil, it doesn't lubricate the injector pump properly.
Discharged batteries will freeze up and crack in the cold, and will take far longer to charge. There isn't much you can do really, you can't insulate a battery as it doesn't want to get too hot either!, but a sheet of thin dense foam between the base of the battery and the battery box helps a lot.
The winter is where solar panels become highly valuable, as cold solar panels work at a slightly higher efficiency, the batteries will be refusing to charge quickly as its cold, so a trickle charge for 8 hours a day is brilliant news. Solar panels these days are excellent, mine charge in moonlight too!
You may wonder why 'food' is a subject here, well, even though you may have a fridge on your boat, as a live aboard your going to be lucky to be able to use it. Gas fridges drink gas, 12v fridges drain batteries.
I appreciate that it seems impossible to live without a fridge, but with todays pasteurization methods , food lasts a lot longer than it used to, milk will last about five days, totally un-chilled, even in a warm boat.
What I'm saying is 'planning' is key.if its perishable, buy what you need not more.
Stock up on tinned and long life none perishable food, I keep around two months of none perishable essentials in the galley cupboard and in storage box's under the bed. Why do I do this? over the years and always in winter I inevitably end up on the wrong side of a emergency closure and cannot find a local shop.
I appreciate that it seems impossible to live without a fridge, but with todays pasteurization methods , food lasts a lot longer than it used to, milk will last about five days, totally un-chilled, even in a warm boat.
What I'm saying is 'planning' is key.if its perishable, buy what you need not more.
Stock up on tinned and long life none perishable food, I keep around two months of none perishable essentials in the galley cupboard and in storage box's under the bed. Why do I do this? over the years and always in winter I inevitably end up on the wrong side of a emergency closure and cannot find a local shop.
Washing yourself is no problem, if you take lots of baths you will be going to the water point regularly, but that's all. As with anything narrowboat, you will want to plan ahead, if your water is engine heated then consider having a bath just after you have run your engine to charge batteries, when its nice and hot. A good tip is to have a shallow bath to get a bit clean, empty it and have a 'clean bath'. Showers are better for water consumption, so if you have one use that. Overall however, personal hygiene is not a problem.
Clothes washing is a bit of a tricky one. If you pile up dirty laundry and then go to the laundrette when you are close to one, storage can be a problem.
Hand washing is the obvious way to go. I used to have three sets of 'everyday clothes' one i wore, one that was drying and one that was ready to wear. Simple. Any 'going out' clothes were either hand washed the next day or bagged for a laundrette run. In winter, my attire was 'everyday clothes' plus Jumper or coat. Regularly washed clothes wont be heavily soiled unless you are a messy eater, if so, get a bib!
For those of you with space and some cash, there are a number of portable mains voltage washing machines on the market, so as long as you have an inverter to convert your 12 volt DC and the battery power to 230 volts AC you are in business.
Unless you are really strapped for cash, a washing machine is not a luxury any more.
Clothes washing is a bit of a tricky one. If you pile up dirty laundry and then go to the laundrette when you are close to one, storage can be a problem.
Hand washing is the obvious way to go. I used to have three sets of 'everyday clothes' one i wore, one that was drying and one that was ready to wear. Simple. Any 'going out' clothes were either hand washed the next day or bagged for a laundrette run. In winter, my attire was 'everyday clothes' plus Jumper or coat. Regularly washed clothes wont be heavily soiled unless you are a messy eater, if so, get a bib!
For those of you with space and some cash, there are a number of portable mains voltage washing machines on the market, so as long as you have an inverter to convert your 12 volt DC and the battery power to 230 volts AC you are in business.
Unless you are really strapped for cash, a washing machine is not a luxury any more.
Emergencies.
PREVENTION IS THE WATCH WORD!
Any fire on a boat is potentially disastrous even if its small fire, as a boat is an enclosed space the smoke gets into everything, so safety first if you try to fight it yourself especially if using CO2 fire extinguishers there will be no air to breathe!
The aftermath of a fire is emotionally devastating, if the fire and rescue service weren't able to get to you down a towpath, the whole place will be soaked, stinking and black. Any windows close by the blaze will have blown out, and most likely any plumbing or electrical systems won't now be working.
Any steel - roof, windows surrounds, sides etc, that has been heated will have twisted and warped. Roofs will never be the same again, and even when the steel has been straightened, the metal has changed, it doesn't matter what you do to it rust seems to bleed through from under the paint and the steel is 'soft' and deforms easily in those areas.
The aftermath of a fire is emotionally devastating, if the fire and rescue service weren't able to get to you down a towpath, the whole place will be soaked, stinking and black. Any windows close by the blaze will have blown out, and most likely any plumbing or electrical systems won't now be working.
Any steel - roof, windows surrounds, sides etc, that has been heated will have twisted and warped. Roofs will never be the same again, and even when the steel has been straightened, the metal has changed, it doesn't matter what you do to it rust seems to bleed through from under the paint and the steel is 'soft' and deforms easily in those areas.
Prevention is better than cure, so make sure your fuel systems are well maintained, personally I no longer use Gas, and I don't store petrol for small petrol generators.
By removing combustible or limiting the amount of combustible materials on your boat, you can start reducing the risk.
By removing combustible or limiting the amount of combustible materials on your boat, you can start reducing the risk.
When it comes to sinking its the critical leak that will sink you!
If your automatic bilge pump, is constantly running that is a sign that you might have a problem.
Leaks that constantly cause the bilge pump to run are genarallt small, often a big 'pinhole' if your boat has a hole, its not in good shape.
Big leaks are a problem, but are easier to find! split seams from hitting a rock are common, as are seams going through general corrosion. Your only hope of staying afloat if this happens is to pack cloth into the crack - grease, silicone or Vaseline will improve this, if you have any, as it waterproofs the cloth. This is not going to stop the leak but it may let you get to a slip way.
Raw water inlets can get torn off sometimes and a lot of water can get in, this isn't so bad as you have solid metal around it - jam anything in you can!
Stern glands can leak, this often can be stopped by regular application of the greaser, if not try nipping up your stern gland nuts.
In any case, a leak usually suggests serious corrosion. be ready for over plating work!
Sinking
If you feel you are going to sink, and have a choice over where it occurs try to get to the towpath side, run aground if you can find a shallow bit that usually will give an end result of two inches less water in your boat. But whatever you do don't panic, and never sink mid channel if you can help it.
Other good sinking spots are, near a road, or at the edge of a marina. Both places where you can be re-floated easily.
If you are unfortunate and sink, contact the canal and River trust immediately.
If your automatic bilge pump, is constantly running that is a sign that you might have a problem.
Leaks that constantly cause the bilge pump to run are genarallt small, often a big 'pinhole' if your boat has a hole, its not in good shape.
Big leaks are a problem, but are easier to find! split seams from hitting a rock are common, as are seams going through general corrosion. Your only hope of staying afloat if this happens is to pack cloth into the crack - grease, silicone or Vaseline will improve this, if you have any, as it waterproofs the cloth. This is not going to stop the leak but it may let you get to a slip way.
Raw water inlets can get torn off sometimes and a lot of water can get in, this isn't so bad as you have solid metal around it - jam anything in you can!
Stern glands can leak, this often can be stopped by regular application of the greaser, if not try nipping up your stern gland nuts.
In any case, a leak usually suggests serious corrosion. be ready for over plating work!
Sinking
If you feel you are going to sink, and have a choice over where it occurs try to get to the towpath side, run aground if you can find a shallow bit that usually will give an end result of two inches less water in your boat. But whatever you do don't panic, and never sink mid channel if you can help it.
Other good sinking spots are, near a road, or at the edge of a marina. Both places where you can be re-floated easily.
If you are unfortunate and sink, contact the canal and River trust immediately.
