Cruising! The Do's and Don'ts
With over forty years cruising the UK network, these are just some of my tips to help you enjoy cruising the canals and rivers.
Cruising Single Handed.
This isn't as difficult as people make out, I've been doing it for years so don't be afraid to try.
The one essential thing you will need is an extra long centre top rope to make life easy.
In locks you can wrap one turn around a bollard and open the paddles while still holding the rope to control the boat, you can pull the boat out of the lock and tie up with the top rope , close the gates and pull the boat back to you.
When it comes to mooring, get close to the bank jump oand Union Canal.
Yes it is harder on your own, but just take your time and don't rush.
On the wider locks such as on the Grand Union Canal, if you can share with another boat it halves the work. Saying that I would never share a lock with a fibreglass cruiser.
The one essential thing you will need is an extra long centre top rope to make life easy.
In locks you can wrap one turn around a bollard and open the paddles while still holding the rope to control the boat, you can pull the boat out of the lock and tie up with the top rope , close the gates and pull the boat back to you.
When it comes to mooring, get close to the bank jump oand Union Canal.
Yes it is harder on your own, but just take your time and don't rush.
On the wider locks such as on the Grand Union Canal, if you can share with another boat it halves the work. Saying that I would never share a lock with a fibreglass cruiser.
Cruising in a straight line.
Cruising in a straight line! simple isn't it!
No!!! its not easy as it sounds, the usual mistake is to overcorrect and then you find yourself rowing the tiller first to the left then the right, and when you look behind you and look at the wake you look like a drunken driver.
The trick is simple, a narrow boat responds slowly to rudder movements, especially at low speeds or low engine revs, so when going straight, little movements and patience.
And don't forget the boat pivots in the middle, so aim for a point in the distance, and try to keep the boat lined up with it.
No!!! its not easy as it sounds, the usual mistake is to overcorrect and then you find yourself rowing the tiller first to the left then the right, and when you look behind you and look at the wake you look like a drunken driver.
The trick is simple, a narrow boat responds slowly to rudder movements, especially at low speeds or low engine revs, so when going straight, little movements and patience.
And don't forget the boat pivots in the middle, so aim for a point in the distance, and try to keep the boat lined up with it.
Stopping.
The only way to stop a narrow boat is to put it into reverse, and use the power of the engine to work against the forward motion of the boat. This means that you need to plan ahead, and slow down before stopping, so you don't over rev the engine.
Watch Your Wash.
Going to fast on the canal is a cardinal sin, and will quickly get you hated on the canal. As a rule of thumb, if your going about as fast as walkers on the towpath around 3/4 mph that's about maximum.
A wave behind the boat is not acceptable, ripples are ok. And make sure you slow right down to a crawl to pass moored boats.
You will be surprised how happy people are to see someone travelling at the right speed.
A wave behind the boat is not acceptable, ripples are ok. And make sure you slow right down to a crawl to pass moored boats.
You will be surprised how happy people are to see someone travelling at the right speed.
Tunnels.
Many tunnels are only big enough for one way traffic, and the guideline in busy times is three one way then three the other. You have to be sure the tunnel is clear before you go, so look through it, or send someone ahead, if your unlucky and its busy, and you are single handed and you cant see the other end, simply wait for another boat to go and follow them through.
In the tunnel, you will find navigation requires you complete attention, the tunnel is narrow, and once you get stuck to the side you will most likely scrape the whole way through. Concentrate on keeping the front in the middle, and then guide the back away from the walls if you come too close.
There are two types of tunnel, those with towpath and those without. In the ones with a towpath, keep your nose to that side.
Any current flow will in the canal will be felt in a tunnel, and you wont be able to keep the boat straight, don't worry, let it crab, just angle the nose to the highest section, if possible.
In the tunnel, you will find navigation requires you complete attention, the tunnel is narrow, and once you get stuck to the side you will most likely scrape the whole way through. Concentrate on keeping the front in the middle, and then guide the back away from the walls if you come too close.
There are two types of tunnel, those with towpath and those without. In the ones with a towpath, keep your nose to that side.
Any current flow will in the canal will be felt in a tunnel, and you wont be able to keep the boat straight, don't worry, let it crab, just angle the nose to the highest section, if possible.
Swing Bridges.
These are usually hydraulically operated, and fairly tedious, your standard lock key is used to wind the bridge up, and it takes a while. You will need to moor up first, on the same side as the hinge of the bridge wind it up, and navigate through. Take care as you do, as the bridge won' t open fully and overhangs a little , so keep slow and to the far side. many a boat has taken out the cratch by hitting a swing bridge.
Once through you must close it, unless another boat is coming , as the locals who use the bridge wont have a lock key to close it.
The rule is, if traffic is waiting, only 3 boats and close the bridge for traffic.
Once through you must close it, unless another boat is coming , as the locals who use the bridge wont have a lock key to close it.
The rule is, if traffic is waiting, only 3 boats and close the bridge for traffic.
Bridges.
Bridges are where you will most likely lose paint or chimneys!, the trick is to line up the boat on approach, guide the nose into the opening, and steer the front half of the boat through, once your front half is in, look down and steer the back, so you don't touch the sides. Personally I often put my hand up to push off from the bridges arch if i get to close. The curve of the arch is often deceptive and can catch the side of the boat..
Turning or Winding.
A 40ft craft will turn in a 40ft wide canal, as long as its deep enough, however, the length of your boat and the width of the canal are difficult to judge, the canal looks wider than it is and your boat looks shorter!
If in doubt, turn slowly and if your too long or there is a shallow bit, you can back off and try elsewhere. The method of turning is easy, stay mid canal, slow down so your just moving, put the tiller hard over and give a burst of power. This will make the boat go forward a little but will swing the back around as it pivots in the middle, once the boat is more than half way round give a little power in reverse to bring the nose off the opposite bank, and repeat as required.
Summary - mid canal, slow, tiller full over, small bursts of power, once half way round, reverse a bit and repeat.
Tips - nose into the turning spot not reverse as it will often be shallow and foul your propeller if you go backwards. Not too much power, as you can over rev the engine, don't worry about the bows touching the far bank.
If in doubt, turn slowly and if your too long or there is a shallow bit, you can back off and try elsewhere. The method of turning is easy, stay mid canal, slow down so your just moving, put the tiller hard over and give a burst of power. This will make the boat go forward a little but will swing the back around as it pivots in the middle, once the boat is more than half way round give a little power in reverse to bring the nose off the opposite bank, and repeat as required.
Summary - mid canal, slow, tiller full over, small bursts of power, once half way round, reverse a bit and repeat.
Tips - nose into the turning spot not reverse as it will often be shallow and foul your propeller if you go backwards. Not too much power, as you can over rev the engine, don't worry about the bows touching the far bank.
Constant Cruising moving on.
Whether you are a continuous cruiser or cruising, or away from your home mooring. Your boat licence only gives you permission to tie up for a short time along the towpath. These are either:
When the monitoring team record the location of a boat, they mark which section (Kilometre) of the canal it’s on.
So what is continues cruising?
The easiest way is to say what its not.
If your cruising range over a year is less than 20 miles (32km) you are not a continuous cruiser.
If you moor up within a five-mile area for most of the year and then go on one 60-mile trip over the course of two weeks you are not a continuous cruiser.
So the aim has to be to be cruising for around 5 miles at least every fourteen days, all year round, to be classed as a continuous cruiser.
You should also keep a log/diary of your journeys to prove that you have been cruising continuously. Not that anyone ever asks to look at it!
Saying that, if you become ill or have a breakdown contact the local canal and river trust boat licence support officer they are usually very supportive.
- 14 days (no longer)
- 7 days
- 48 hours
- Or whatever length of time the sign along the towpath shows if you’re at a visitor mooring
When the monitoring team record the location of a boat, they mark which section (Kilometre) of the canal it’s on.
So what is continues cruising?
The easiest way is to say what its not.
If your cruising range over a year is less than 20 miles (32km) you are not a continuous cruiser.
If you moor up within a five-mile area for most of the year and then go on one 60-mile trip over the course of two weeks you are not a continuous cruiser.
So the aim has to be to be cruising for around 5 miles at least every fourteen days, all year round, to be classed as a continuous cruiser.
You should also keep a log/diary of your journeys to prove that you have been cruising continuously. Not that anyone ever asks to look at it!
Saying that, if you become ill or have a breakdown contact the local canal and river trust boat licence support officer they are usually very supportive.
Mooring.
To moor securely, you will need something secure to tie to. Never ever run a rope across the towpath, always tie to the rings or armco sides. Mooring pins are ok, but must be hammered in angled away from the boat so they don't pull out.
Never moor from your top rope as a passing craft can create enough of a wave to pull you over. so make sure you tied from both the bow and the stern and have the ropes tight.
Ok so l ets look at the worst case scenario - you need to moor in a line of boats and your single handed. You can just 'get close' jump off and pull it in, but the best way is to come in slow and direct the nose to the spot you want it. You are looking to come to a stop with the nose in the right place but the back half way out in the canal. Once you have achieved this, point the tiller at the bank you are trying to moor to and give a little power very little. The back of the boat will be driven to the bank by the propeller, with little or no forward motion.
Never moor from your top rope as a passing craft can create enough of a wave to pull you over. so make sure you tied from both the bow and the stern and have the ropes tight.
Ok so l ets look at the worst case scenario - you need to moor in a line of boats and your single handed. You can just 'get close' jump off and pull it in, but the best way is to come in slow and direct the nose to the spot you want it. You are looking to come to a stop with the nose in the right place but the back half way out in the canal. Once you have achieved this, point the tiller at the bank you are trying to moor to and give a little power very little. The back of the boat will be driven to the bank by the propeller, with little or no forward motion.
Where to moor.
Of course you have the normal Canal & River Trust mooring spots, which are ok, and have rings to tie to etc, but that's obvious. 'other' mooring spots are available too, look for evidence of bits of rope around the pilings showing where people have tied up before. You can get away with a lot so long as you follow these basic rules.
Where Not to moor.
Never moor across a water point, and don't obstruct the canal, never stop in someone else's private permanent mooring, even if there not there. And funnily enough don't moor where it says 'no mooring' or 'private land', finally don't moor in the tie up spots for the locks.
Locks.
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There are several sizes of lock, but all work the same way. Initially lets look at housekeeping, going up or down, tie up securely and walk up to the lock. Rules when busy are to fill the lock with boats on filling and emptying - so look out for people on the way down before you empty it and conversely for the way up. Always close gates when you leave and drop all paddles. Never allow a paddle to free fall, always wind it down.
Unless the lock is wide, always lift fenders. Ok, there are three components to a lock. The Gates, the top and bottom paddles and the Cill. The gate opens to let you in, the paddle lets water into or out of the lock, and the cill is the edge of the bottom of the upper part of the canal and can sink unwary boaters. |
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The principal is fairly simple, if your going up, you need the lock empty to get in, if your going down it must be full. the paddles are cranked with the key and they have a simple ratchet to hold them up, with the lock empty you can pretty much do what you want to let water in or out, so do that, and once ready, swing the gate open to let your craft in. A narrow boat will fit through a single gate of a double lock.
Once in, run a top rope to a bollard on the side and wrap it round a couple of turns - don't tie it.
Going up - close the bottom gates and don't worry if there not completely shut the water flow will close them, open the bottom paddles on the top gate slowly, If your single crewed you will now need to run to your rope to stop the boat being sucked into the front of the lock. Let the lock fill up
Remember if you forget to close the bottom gate paddles the lock will never fill and you are draining the top pound, also there are some locks with both gate paddles and ground paddles, if you open the gate paddles before the ground paddles the boat will get sucked forward, and water will start to pour into your front deck, and may well sink you.
Also,
Going down - first of all you will see a marker on the wall saying 'cill' this is the step in the canal - if your not in front of this the back of the boat will land on it as you go down, levering the nose underwater, again, you will sink. As a guide, if your under 60ft, and the nose is touching the lower gate - your fine. There is only one set of paddles on the lower gate so open up and hold the boat steady.
Emergencies
if you realise your on the cill, initially try to push forward, this is the quickest way to get out of danger, if your stuck, run to and drop the lower gate paddles and gently open the upper ground paddles to float yourself off.
Jammed
you can get jammed a few ways, fenders too big, in with another boat with fenders too big, in with another boat and the walls are bowed, or, with small boats, across the lock jammed on brickwork. Anyway - firstly, stop the water coming into the lock by dropping the paddles and drain it back down. Try cutting fender ropes, and rocking the boat.
Flooding
If you end up shipping water, and it gets to a stage the water is coming into vents, if you are quick enough, get a rope front and back to bollards and drain the lock enough to be below the vent holes (not further - the ropes/bollards wont hold your boats full weight and let the bilge pump do its job.
Clothes can be used to stuff holes as well, and flooding to the front deck can be slowed from getting into the main boat by closing the doors.
Letting boats pass.
This is a tricky one, if you come up to a narrow bit of the canal and someone else is coming then you need to decide who stops, In theory, its whoever is furthest away.
Anyway, stopping your boat can make it slew across the canal, leaving you very little space to correct it, this needs to be avoided. The best solution is to turn towards the side, then reverse to stop yourself, again you are 'planting the nose' and steering the back.
You can manoeuvre the back easily, the bow is the problem. So, nose in, reverse, then as the front tries to pull away from the bank with the reverse action (called prop walk) and put the boat into neutral. In theory you should be moving very slowly now.
The moment the other boat gets close, and you can go, do, the other boat will suck yours into it as he passed if your stationary - so get moving or jump off with a rope.
Anyway, stopping your boat can make it slew across the canal, leaving you very little space to correct it, this needs to be avoided. The best solution is to turn towards the side, then reverse to stop yourself, again you are 'planting the nose' and steering the back.
You can manoeuvre the back easily, the bow is the problem. So, nose in, reverse, then as the front tries to pull away from the bank with the reverse action (called prop walk) and put the boat into neutral. In theory you should be moving very slowly now.
The moment the other boat gets close, and you can go, do, the other boat will suck yours into it as he passed if your stationary - so get moving or jump off with a rope.
Grounding.
All too frequently you will find the canal bottom is far too near the surface, you will know when this happens as your journey will become briefly bumpy, then stop. What you must not try to drive on, the only thing you can do is reverse back reasonable revs should get you off.
This is all about being patient and taking your time it takes a while to unground yourself. If reversing doesn't work try to rock the boat from side to side while reversing, or pull it out with a rope from the bank.
Throwing passengers and luggage off the craft temporarily will help too.
Occasionally you will wake up at a mooring to find the canal has dropped overnight and your are grounded. in this instance, try to push the front into deeper water, the back will follow eventually. If this doesn't work, check nearby locks are closed properly, and let some water through locks above you.
This is all about being patient and taking your time it takes a while to unground yourself. If reversing doesn't work try to rock the boat from side to side while reversing, or pull it out with a rope from the bank.
Throwing passengers and luggage off the craft temporarily will help too.
Occasionally you will wake up at a mooring to find the canal has dropped overnight and your are grounded. in this instance, try to push the front into deeper water, the back will follow eventually. If this doesn't work, check nearby locks are closed properly, and let some water through locks above you.
Other No No's
Don't let you dog run anywhere except the towpath.
If you moor offside and let your dog run in farmers field you will get yelled at.
Don't EVER leave rubbish, and if there is any where you stop, pick it up or you will be blamed.
If there is any danger of fire, don't have a barbecue.
Surprisingly, if you get to somewhere you need to stop and its busy, its ok to moor against another boat for a while so long as you follow the correct etiquette.
Ask for permission, give reason why' - i.e. - ' Can I moor against you? I'm waiting to get to the water' Just make sure you don't scratch half his paint off.
If you moor offside and let your dog run in farmers field you will get yelled at.
Don't EVER leave rubbish, and if there is any where you stop, pick it up or you will be blamed.
If there is any danger of fire, don't have a barbecue.
Surprisingly, if you get to somewhere you need to stop and its busy, its ok to moor against another boat for a while so long as you follow the correct etiquette.
Ask for permission, give reason why' - i.e. - ' Can I moor against you? I'm waiting to get to the water' Just make sure you don't scratch half his paint off.
